Big Flavor in Willamette’s Little Norway
covagabond. wherever it takes us
X.OR.wine.1: Big Flavor in Willamette’s Little Norway
by covagabond
Stangeland Vineyards & Winery
8500 Hopewell RD NW, Salem, OR
Larry David Miller of Salem, OR had no plans to start a vineyard when he first planted grapes in 1978, but his grandparents from Stavanger, Norway would recognize the name of his unintended winery, Stangeland, meaning “strong land”.
Little did the now 73 year old founder know that what he’d just done, namely planting pinot noir on the west slopes of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, would change his life forever – taking him to his ancestral home, to Switzerland to be awarded three gold medals, and beyond.
I came to be in wine country quite unintentionally, my only known destination on departure being “the Oregon coast”. When I mentioned my Pacific northwest whereabouts to my fantastic sister, she immediately effused about the beauty of the region, having spent time living here herself, and started me on my quest for good grapes.
I googled the vintner nearest me, and lit out for adventure. My drive culminated in a beautifully cultivated lane passing the owner’s home and leading me to Stangeland Vineyards and Winery itself, tucked back behind chairs and tables sitting on a large shaded porch.
Of course, Stangeland is currently closed to the public due to the current health orders, but has curbside and other options available for their loyal customers. Upon arrival I was greeted by the lonely signs telling me such.
I was still hoping to take some photos of the property when Larry, coffee cup in hand, walked over to greet me warmly, inviting me to sit with him and an associate of his on the porch. There over my McDonald’s one black coffee befitting John Mulaney’s father, sat and I listened. Larry received his degree in analytical chemistry from Oregon State University, and his primary interest in viticulture grew from a cultivation standpoint.
“I was interested in the growing of the grapes,” he chuckled, “I didn’t really mean to start a winery.”
After rooting vines for two years in his sister’s garden, Larry transplanted 1500 survivors, about half of his crop, into his two acre plot in the Eola-Amity Hills in 1978. His first batches in ’85 and ’86, not yet ready for retail, were bottled and shared among family and friends.
“[Then] somebody hits you with a two by four and says, ‘Hey Larry why don’t you start a winery?'”
It would be after additions and expansions, bringing in other locally sourced grapes and refining his processes and flavor complexity that his wine would hit the shelves in ’93 and Stangeland would begin receiving international recognition.
“In 2000 I entered the Mondal du Pinot Noir in Sierre, Switzerland, with a [1998] State Reserve Pinot. Lo and behold we got a gold [medal].”
Out of nearly 800 entries from approximately 15 countries, Stangeland surprised and delighted, ushering in a new millennium of success for the Willamette pioneer.
Stangeland produces about 70% pinot noir, with chardonnay and other varieties making up the remainder of its yield. The Van Duzer breezes pour through a low gap of the same name in the coastal range, promoting acidity in the fruit by maintaining cold nights, while the bracing afternoon sun bathes the south facing slopes of volcanic soil in golden warmth.
Larry did tell me that before the root structures penetrated down to the underlying rock that the grapes were more robust, but his accolades, three gold and four silver medals, belie any deterioration of quality in the terroir.
All in all my visit with Mr. Miller was a delight. He invited me to wander his rows, and photograph to my heart’s content.
I was well rewarded. Since I was driving I didn’t taste any wines at Stangeland, but urge you to drop by for a glass with Larry next time you’re in the neighborhood.
Writing to you from Salem, OR,
As always,
Your covagabond
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