Hiking in Tayabas, Quezon PR, Philippines
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X.SEA.2 Hiking in Tayabas, Philippines
Hiking in Tayabas, Quezon PR, Luzon, Philippines
Making your way round psychedelic jeepnies, cycle-pedicabs, and the ubiquitous motorized tricycle cabs that dot Luzobn’s highways southeast of Metro Manila en route from Ninoy Aquinos International Airport to Tayabas City, jungle vistas present themselves as you wind through the villages, towns, and cities nestled amongst volcanic peaks and balmy bays.
Debark the aircon equipped, wifi providing JACLiner bus at the Calumpang Jollibee, cross the street to the waiting tricycle, and haggle over your fare.
To be honest, I’m usually so blitzed by thirty consecutive hours of travel at this point that I don’t mind making a driver’s day, and don’t bother negotiating at all.
Pass by the Roman Catholic Cemetery that marks the true beginning of town proper, and tell yourself that once you’ve settled back into local rhythms you’ll start keeping a better eye on your pocketbook. This is the last terrible travel scalping you’ll endure for the foreseeable future. (Minor ones are an ongoing reality…)
When not stranded by Taal rumblings and pandemic shutdowns, I live most of my year in little Tayabas City, “lambanog (a strong local coconut liquor) capital of the Philippines”, in Quezon Province on the island of Luzon.
On the slopes of Mount Banahaw, Tayabas’s agricultural barangays (local districts similar to neighborhoods, each with active local government) spread into rainforest clearings and winding footpaths.
Two beautiful locations I’ll share with you today are Barangay Calantas, and Barangay Pook. They are nearly equidistant from my home base in Munting Bayan (roughly “Little Downtown”), and each within healthy warm-up distance.
Before you head out, make sure to stop at the Palengke (the local, open air market) for supplies like bottled water, fruits, and hot snacks like quek quek (skewers of deep fried quail eggs), and shawarma from a variety of food trucks nearby.
North of Tayabas proper one turns uphill in Barangay Malaoa to begin a walk of roughly two and a half miles to reach Barangay Calantas, where road access for vehicles ceases, and horses and carabao share the rough path leading farther up the mountain.
Small sari-sari stores, catch all convenience shops run from heavily gated shacks, dot the road where local residents recline in the shade, often offering lambanog shots to passing Americanos.
The path becomes quite steep at times, and moisture on rock can lead to slick conditions, prepare to get a little dirty.
However, it opens on rolling terraces, rice fields fanning under the sun, and spiky pineapple plantations abutting the trail, with the majority of the incline being pleasantly manageable.
Make sure to remember your sun protection. This vagabond recommends long sleeves and trousers, with synthetic moisture wicking recommended. A wide brimmed hat and close toed (I recommend waterproof) shoes or boots, in addition to sunscreen will keep you in the shade.
Pack plenty of water and some snacks that don’t melt, and enjoy the elevation gains.
In south central Tayabas one heads south from the intersection on the downhill side of 7-11, winding down through neighborhood streets until being greeted by a large bridge. A side path forks left to smaller foot access below the vehicle causeway, and is my preference.
The barangay borders and its current officers are declared by electric blue signs greet entering vagabonds, overlooking a winding river and bridge leading to the far shore and a slight uphill climb.
Shades, concrete shelters by roadsides offer respite from rain, and are posted with various bills. I often stop to write notes and drink in the cool of these cozy nooks.
Rushing river melodies murmur around the vibrant signposts and shade, the current lively and dappled in sun under the bridge.
Lush jungle hems the path at points, but opens onto glass smooth rice paddies falling away to dark, middle distance tree lines.
Very little incline challenge is to be found in Pook.
The path rolls through fields and around tiny homes where chickens cluck and dogs run underfoot of friendly locals with their ubiquitous queries of, “Hey Joe! Where are you going Joe?” It’s a standard nickname for any traveler of obviously western European descent.
I generally choose Barangay Pook for evening walks. Its east facing views are shaded by the early, lingering twilight of Mt. Banahaw.
The cool evening breezes play over the standing water of the rice paddies, and keep most of the mosquitoes at bay.
The trail does become quite narrow at tines, but I’ve never followed it to an end or T-junction. My miniature hiking appetite is easily sated. I might go three miles beyond the initial river crossing before turning back. Perhaps less.
Find some street lumpia and pancit, and finish your evening off with Red Horse.
As always, your covagabond.
Fri, 8 May 2020.
~
“Be Still like a Mountain, and Flow like a Great River.” -Lao Tzu
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